Spa Stories

Read about places our team has been to.

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VIETNAM SPA RESORTS – by Julie Miller

I’m buried up to my neck in what appears to be a large, glassed-in indoor sandpit, heated to a steamy 40 degrees. The weight of the half sand, half salt mixture is surprisingly heavy – it’s impossible to wiggle a toe, let alone free my hands. Beads of perspiration trickle down my face… and a stray hair itches my nose. Most disturbingly, I can feel my pulse throbbing beyond belief; I’m suddenly aware that my body is really just one, big pulsing organ pumping blood to every extremity.

I begin to panic that the tiny Vietnamese woman who buried me here fifteen minutes ago has forgotten me. My pulse thumps even harder, an urgent drum. I think I’m having a panic attack. Or even worse, I’m going to explode.

And this is supposed to be relaxing?! It is, in fact, a spa treatment, a Japanese therapy designed to detox the body, to rid it of impurities. It feels so revolting, it must be doing good – and in this uncomfortable, itchy, sweaty environment, I can practically feel the cellulite melting off my thighs. Or that’s the theory at least, and the one thing that stops me from screaming “get me outta here!”

The Dry Sand & Salt Sauna is one of the unique therapies on offer at the Life Resort in Quy Nhon, Central Vietnam. I have come to this remote coastal outpost to experience an increasingly popular phenomenon – spa resorts in Vietnam. A number of them have popped up recently in the central region, as well as in major hotels in Saigon and Hanoi. However, it’s still a new concept in Vietnam, and unlike other Asian countries, it’s not one that sits comfortably in a cultural context.

I am surprised to learn that in Vietnam, massage still has negative connotations, a reminder of too-recent dark days when many young women were forced into houses of ill-repute during the war. As it is considered shameful for a young woman to admit she is a masseuse, the western-managed spa resorts call their staff ‘beauty therapists’, and place the emphasis on ‘wellness’ rather than on indulgence. They also tempt employees with a more rounded education such as English lessons and training in yoga and tai chi. The concept seems to be working – and as spa resorts become more widely accepted throughout the country, so the benefits to both locals and the tourism industry in general are becoming more obvious.

A spa industry in Vietnam makes perfect sense. Not only does it provide an essential service for a new, sophisticated type of tourist – those who are after luxury, relaxation and pampering – but it’s also a great way of promoting the beautiful coastal regions of the country.

Not many Australians think of Vietnam as a seaside destination – and while it’s true that there’s not a strong beach culture, there are many lovely, relatively unspoilt sandy patches on the coastline, offering lovely views and pleasant places to while away the time. There is also the added attraction of a unique, vibrant and colourful culture, delicious local cuisine, and fantastic shopping. Best of all, the spa resorts in Vietnam are surprisingly affordable, in keeping with other similar standard accommodation.

Of course, you’d be crazy to come to Vietnam just for a massage and a couple of days on the beach. But what could be more enticing, after a hectic schedule exploring the bustling cities of Hanoi and Saigon, than to chill for a couple of days, enjoying total indulgence at a fraction of the cost of anywhere else?

That’s the philosophy of the Life Resorts in Hoi An and Quy Nhon – to provide a sanctuary, a unique escape in a busy, stressful world. Each resort is relatively small, and built in a unique location using architecture reflecting the local culture. Provincial furnishings, artworks and produce all stimulate the local economy; and the staff are largely from the nearby village, trained on-site in all aspects of hospitality.

For guests, the aim is to achieve harmony in all ten – yes, count them - senses – sight, sound, smell, taste, touch, sixth sense, feelings, local culture, feng shui and creativity. To create this, no detail is spared, from spectacular views from every room, to yoga and tai chi sessions on the beach, to freshly prepared meals. There are even art classes designed to bring the inner artist to life!

Building their first resort at the unknown coastal village of Quy Nhon was something of a gamble for the Dutch-owned Life group. Half way between Danang and Nha Trang, Quy Nhon is well off the beaten tourist trail, and is not that easy to get to, involving a long drive from the closest airport. Those who do make the trek, however, are rewarded with the joys – and occasional trials – of a very young industry. The local staff members speak rudimentary English, which can make communication difficult – and rather amusing – at times. But there is also that refreshing lack of cynicism that comes with mass tourism – you couldn’t find people more willing to please than these sweet, shy Vietnamese villagers.

The spectacular main building at the Quy Nhon resort is built in the style of the traditional Cham culture, an ancient civilisation that flourished in this area from the 5th to the 15th centuries. Guests are greeted in the lobby with statues of the elephant god Ganesha, symbol of luck and art, and Uma, the mother of the homeland god. A long reflective pool, resplendent with tinkling waterfall, also celebrates two Cham symbols – the male linga and the female yoni. And every room has its own bust of a Cham goddess watching over it.

The resort spa, built on a hill overlooking the sandy beach and a neighbouring fishing community nestles into landscaped gardens resplendent with rock pools, tropical flowers and serene statues of Buddha. Five outdoor pavilions, built on stilts, serve as massage bungalows, providing the perfect ambience for relaxation – the fresh ocean breeze, the sound of the waves, and views to die for.

After the stress of the Salt and Sand Sauna, I was more than ready for a good rub down. After first receiving an invigorating fresh coconut body scrub, I was delighted to find that I was to receive a four-handed Vietnamese massage – two masseuses working in tandem on each side of my body. Never let it be said again that two hands are enough – a four-handed massage is synchronised heaven!

At Quy Nhon, there is really very little to do but relax. Activities – such as visits to nearby Cham temples and bicycle rides into the village – are available, but most guests just choose to chill by the pool in the sticky heat of the day, perhaps indulging in a yoga class, or tai chi lessons on the beach. And of course, there are those enticing spa treatments…

In contrast, the Life Resort at Hoi An is right in the heart of a vibrant and colourful historic town, located right on the busy Thu Bon River just 200 metres from the fish and vegetable markets. Merchants have been trading their wares here for 500 years, and today this designated World Heritage  Site charms with ancient vestiges of the many cultures that contributed to its unique character.

Hoi An is the perfect size to just wander, or even to take a leisurely bicycle ride. Every alleyway reveals a hidden treasure – an Chinese-style ancient house, with its cool, dark interior and antique furnishings; the covered Japanese bridge; a handicraft workshop, with intricate works created by disadvantaged locals. Even just wandering along the working riverfront is an education – it’s fascinating to watch the fishermen at work, casting their nets and operating the huge fish traps that rise majestically out of the river. It’s a wonderful slice of traditional Vietnamese life, all wrapped up in one very appealing city.

Hoi An is famed for its tailors, and most tourists make a beeline for one of the 300 or so shopfronts selling silk creations of every description. One of the most popular is Thu Thuy, a family-run business who’ll whip up whatever you like overnight. This is not the cheapest tailor in town – a silk chiffon dress, two divine blouses and a silk camisole set me back US$120 (AU$   ) – but the quality and fit are extremely reliable. Just a word of warning – make sure you allow time for this process, as the fittings can be time-consuming and a little frustrating!

At the end of a hard day’s shopping and sightseeing, the French Colonial-style Life Resort is a welcome sanctuary. Its rooms – most overlooking the garden and pool, but some with a river view – are all large, comfortable and exquisitely furnished, with sunken granite bathtubs and homely front porches to take in the views.

Spa treatments  - including facials utilising Dermalogica products, hot stone therapy, Ayurvedic ‘third eye’ warm oil massages and reflexology - are also available here, and there’s also the option of traditional Chinese medicinal treatments. Massages take place in a covered gazebo next to the pool, with the always-busy river providing a fascinating backdrop.

Both the Life Resorts in Hoi An and Quy Nhon offer remarkable value for money. Weekend packages start from as little as US$99, including breakfasts, some activities, and spa discounts. A touch of 5-star luxury at a bargain basement price.

Taking care of the upper end of Vietnam’s burgeoning spa market is the exclusive Ana Mandara resort at Nha Trang, along with its sister property the Evason Hideaway, located at isolated Ninh Van Bay and accessible only by boat.

The Ana Mandara resort sits right on the pretty beach at Nha Trang, famed for being the R & R capital during wartime. The phrase ‘ana mandara’ means ‘beautiful home for guests’ in the ancient Cham language, and this is exactly what you get at this stylish resort. Each room is resplendent with four-poster native wood king-sized beds decorated with gorgeous local fabrics, large living areas and a sunny front porch overlooking the beach. Nearby is a large open-air restaurant, a lounge bar and a stunning infinity pool.

The boutique Evason Hideaway combines traditional Vietnamese style with modern innovation, its two-storey open-design bungalows clinging to the rocky shoreline. These fabulous villas offer the ultimate in luxury, with huge open living spaces decorated with rustic, yet comfortable wooden furniture, traditional deep wooden bathtubs, a wine cellar, netted day lounges overlooking private plunge pools, and in some cases, direct access to the sea. The attention to detail is uncompromised, making this arguably the most attractive resort in all of Vietnam.

Both Ana Mandara and the Evason Hideaway feature a Six Senses Spa, a well-known and highly awarded spa group based in Thailand. The experience you’ll have here is reminiscent of other Asian countries such as Thailand or Bali, where spas have become an integral part of the tourism market. From the formal reception, to the zen gardens, the relaxation pavilions and the therapy rooms, the whole set-up is highly sophisticated and extremely enticing! Guests can choose from an array of options – rose petal baths, Swedish or Thai massages, detoxifying treatments, stress managements, facials, yoga and meditation classes. Attention is paid to the individual requirements of guests, who must first undergo an assessment to determine their needs.

My needs, of course, were extremely simple – to look ten years younger in an hour, and to come out of the experience relaxed, glowing and gorgeous. Mission accomplished, of course – with the butterfly emerging from the cocoon ready to take on the other challenges and delights that Vietnam offers in abundance!